Custom Sunscreen: Mineral vs. Chemical — Your Private Label Guide

You’re not just picking “a sunscreen.” You’re deciding what your brand stands for: mineral purity, elegant chemical sensorials, or a smart hybrid that balances both.

Mineral sunscreens rely on zinc oxide/titanium dioxide to physically block UV and suit sensitive skin but risk white cast and thicker textures. Chemical sunscreens use organic UV filters for lighter feel and clearer finish, yet require photostability and regional compliance care. Hybrids blend both to hit higher SPF/UVA targets with better wear. Choose by skin type, shade range, claims, regulations, and budget—then lock it with robust testing and packaging.

Stay with me—by the end, you’ll know exactly which route to brief, how to pass SPF/UVA testing, and how Zerun Cosmetic can get you from idea to compliant launch with confidence.

What’s the real difference between mineral and chemical sunscreens?

Mineral filters (zinc oxide, titanium dioxide) are inorganic particulates that scatter/absorb UV; they’re broad-spectrum, gentle, and reef-leaning but can leave white cast and feel thicker. Chemical filters (e.g., avobenzone, octisalate, octocrylene) are organic molecules that absorb UV; they allow sheer textures and elegant sensorials but demand photostability strategies and region-specific compliance. Your choice hinges on audience, finish, and market rules.

How each filter family works

• Mineral: Micronized or coated ZnO/TiO₂ reflect, refract, and absorb UV. Excellent UVA coverage with zinc oxide; titanium dioxide is stronger in UVB/short-UVA.
• Chemical: Distinct molecules cover slices of UV. You combine filters to achieve SPF (UVB) and UVA-PF while maintaining stability and feel.

Aesthetics & wear

• Minerals can be thicker, more matte; newer dispersions and tinting reduce cast.
• Chemicals feel lighter, clearer, and layer well under makeup.

Tolerance

• Mineral: go-to for sensitive, post-procedure, pediatric users.
• Chemical: well-tolerated by most when sensorial excellence and no-cast finish are priorities.

Brand signaling

• “Derm-sensitive, clean, reef-leaning” → Mineral or Hybrid.
• “Invisible, elegant, daily wear” → Chemical or Hybrid.

UV filter families at a glance

*Indicative, varies by market rules and formula system.

Which filter system fits your custom brand—mineral, chemical, or hybrid?

Match the system to your buyer and claims. Mineral suits sensitive skin, pediatric focus, and “no-cast tinted” positioning. Chemical wins for invisible daily wear and makeup-friendly textures. Hybrid blends mineral UVA strength with chemical clarity to hit high SPF/UVA with better aesthetics. Consider target regions, “reef-friendly” narratives, budget, and shade-inclusivity requirements before you lock the brief.

Decision levers that matter

• Audience: Sensitive/derm-led → Mineral/Hybrid; Beauty-style, makeup layering → Chemical/Hybrid.
• Shade range: Deep tones benefit from chemical or tinted mineral/hybrid options.
• Retail positioning: Clean-leaning boutiques favor mineral/hybrid; mass prestige often prefers invisible wear (chemical/hybrid).
• Regulatory scope: If you sell globally, hybrid or mineral + globally accepted filters simplify dossiers.

Cost & supply

• Mineral slurries with premium coatings and dispersion aids can raise base cost.
• Modern chemical filters (outside US) may cost more per kilo but allow lower total % for the same protection and superior feel—often a net aesthetic win.

Scenarios

• Outdoor/sport brand: Hybrid, water-resistant gel-cream, airless; sweat-stable film-formers.
• Sensitive family line: Mineral lotion + tinted mineral fluid; fragrance-free.
• Beauty daily SPF: Chemical serum-lotion with invisible finish, primer-like sensorials.

Fast match: brand goals → filter system

*Always check local laws; “reef-safe” is not a regulated term.

How do you set SPF/UVA-PF targets and pass ISO/FDA tests?

Start with market claims (e.g., SPF 30/50+, broad spectrum). Backward-engineer filters to meet in-vivo SPF and in-vitro/in-vivo UVA requirements, then confirm with recognized methods (e.g., ISO 24444 for SPF; ISO 24443 for UVA in vitro; region-specific protocols). Build in a safety margin, run stability first, then commission accredited labs for final substantiation and labeling.

Plan from the label backward

• Decide SPF (30/50/50+) and UVA claim early.
• Select filters + boosters (film formers, emollients, antioxidants) that hit targets in pilot tests.

Testing choreography

1. Bench screening: in-house in-vitro estimates (for direction)
2. Stability: 40 °C/75% RH, freeze-thaw, light/heat stress
3. Pilot SPF/UVA: refine filters % and photostability
4. Final accredited testing: human SPF (e.g., ISO 24444), UVA-PF (e.g., ISO 24443), water resistance (regional methods), broad-spectrum where applicable.

Safety margin and Documentation

• Formulate to overshoot your target slightly (e.g., lab aim SPF 60 to label SPF 50) to account for lot-to-lot variability.
• Maintain full dossiers: formula, CoAs, MSDS, test reports, stability summaries, packaging compatibility, and compliant artwork.

Typical testing & substantiation plan

Do textures, tints, and micronization solve white cast across skin tones?

Yes—coated, well-dispersed minerals plus iron-oxide tints and film-forming esters can dramatically reduce cast. Emulsion architecture matters: high-internal-phase emulsions, gel-creams, and fluid lotions help spread thinly. For deep tones, micro-tinting across shades or going hybrid/chemical ensures clear, even wear. Always validate with real-tone panels and daylight photography—not just lab lights.

Particle engineering

• Use surface-treated ZnO/TiO₂, optimized D50 particle size, and dispersants to avoid agglomeration.
• Pair with esters/silicones for slip and film uniformity.

Tint strategy

• Micro-tints (iron oxides) neutralize cast without looking like makeup.
• Offer 3–4 shade options (light/medium/tan/deep) to cover wide tones.

Format choices

• Fluid emulsions spread thinner; stick formats help on-the-go but need glide enhancers.
• Serum-lotion hybrids marry skincare feel with SPF performance.

Real-world validation

Test outdoors and under smartphone cameras. Include oily, dry, and textured skin in panels.

White-cast mitigation quick guide

Is your formula photostable, water-resistant, and reef-compliant?

Photostability keeps labeled protection during wear; use stabilized filters, quenchers, and antioxidants. Water-resistance (40/80 minutes where applicable) depends on film formers and emulsifier design—test to claim. “Reef-friendly” positioning requires avoiding locally restricted filters and using non-nano or coated minerals where relevant. Always verify against the specific laws of each sales region before artwork sign-off.

Photostability toolbox

• Stabilize avobenzone with synergistic filters and quenchers.
• Add tocopherol, ferulic, or rosemary extract as antioxidants.
• Validate under UV exposure benches pre-SPF testing.

Water-resistance architecture

• Film-formers (acrylates, polyglutamates, certain silicones) and emulsifier choice drive retention.
• Balance resistance with pleasant rinse-off to avoid greasiness.

“Reef” positioning

• Avoid filters restricted by destination markets (e.g., some US states/islands).
• Prefer coated ZnO/TiO₂; communicate responsibly—“reef-safe” lacks a universal legal definition.

Label discipline

Claim only what testing proves. Maintain traceable links from batch to report.

How are packaging and stability testing chosen for long shelf life?

Match packaging to formula and claim risk: UV-protective bottles, airless pumps, and oxygen-barrier tubes reduce oxidation and potency drift. Verify compatibility (sorption, corrosion), then run accelerated and real-time stability plus light/exposure studies. For water-resistant claims, include stress-application testing. Record everything in your PIF/technical file for retailer and regulator reviews.

Pack–formula fit

• Airless pumps cut oxygen ingress; UV-safe containers protect sensitive filters.
• Laminate tubes (EVOH) reduce permeation; good for beach conditions.

Compatibility

• Check sorption into plastics, pigment separation, valve clogging, and label/ink resistance to SPF actives.

Stability matrix

• 40 °C, 50 °C (selectively), 25 °C/60% RH, photo-stability, and freeze–thaw.
• Monitor SPF drift in pilot checkpoints, viscosity, pH, odor, color, microbial risk.

Packaging & stability cheat sheet

Which claims, labeling, and regional rules matter (US/EU/UK/AU)?

Claims and labels must follow local rules: SPF value, broad-spectrum/UVA indications, water-resistance duration (if tested), usage instructions, and ingredient lists by INCI. Some regions require UVA-PF ≥ 1/3 of SPF and specific symbols; others specify broad-spectrum tests and exact water-resistant wording. Align your formula, testing, and artwork early to avoid reprints and launch delays.

Core claim set

• SPF (30/50/50+), broad-spectrum/UVA, water-resistant (40/80 min where applicable), and derm-tested (if substantiated).
• Avoid drug-like promises—stick to cosmetic-appropriate language (e.g., “helps protect against sunburn and photoaging”).

Regional nuances (high level)

• EU/UK: UVA-PF target relative to SPF; standardized UVA symbol practices; robust PIF and safety assessors.
• US: Broad-spectrum pass criteria; specific label phrases; water-resistance phrasing tied to verified duration.
• AU/NZ: TGA-governed SPF goods; ensure listings and artwork conformance.
• ASEAN: Localized adoption of ISO methods with country-specific labeling.

Artwork best practices

• Batch codes, PAO, net contents, usage intervals, and re-apply guidance.
• Avoid “reef-safe” absolutes; prefer precise, verifiable language.

Zerun Private-Label Sunscreen: MOQs, Lead Times & Cost Drivers

What you can expect with Zerun

At Zerun, we design for speed without cutting corners. Typical pilot samples land in ~2–4 weeks, MOQs start at 500–1,000 units (format-dependent), and mass production runs ~30–45 days after approvals. Total cost is shaped by your filter system (mineral coatings vs. modern chemical filters), water-resistance architecture, testing scope, and packaging (airless, laminate, custom molds). We optimize mixes (e.g., smart hybrids + right-sized testing) to keep budgets healthy while protecting your claims.

Where your Zerun budget goes

• Actives & filters — premium coated ZnO/TiO₂, modern global filters, antioxidants, film formers.
• Testing & compliance — ISO-aligned SPF/UVA and water-resistance with accredited labs, plus region-ready files.
• Packaging — airless pumps, EVOH laminate tubes, UV-safe resins; stock packs for speed, custom for branding.

Timeline control—Zerun’s playbook

• Lock claims early (SPF/UVA, water-resistance, “tinted/no-cast”) to avoid reformulation loops.
• Approve shade/tint and fragrance-free vs. fragranced before pilot runs.
• Run accelerated stability in parallel with pilot refinement to compress calendar time.

Scale with Zerun (Phase 2)

• Extend to tinted shades across skin tones or add stick/spray once the base SKU is approved and tested—maximizes reuse of data and reduces re-work.

Zerun Private-Label Timeline & Ballpark Ranges

*Ranges are illustrative; we’ll quote precisely to your formula, artwork, and destination markets.

Why brands choose Zerun

• End-to-end OEM/ODM: filter strategy, formulation, shade-matching, stability, and coordination with accredited SPF/UVA testing—plus compliant artwork.
• Fast & flexible: low MOQs, free design, and free samples for qualified briefs.
• Retail-ready documentation: US/EU/UK/AU/ASEAN-oriented technical files to streamline audits.
• Finish that wins repurchase: we obsess over white-cast control, pilling resistance, makeup compatibility, and real-tone wear tests.

Conclusion

Mineral, chemical, or hybrid isn’t just a chemistry choice—it’s your brand promise in the sun-care aisle. Mineral brings gentleness and trust; chemical delivers invisible elegance; hybrids split the difference with high protection and better wear. The right answer aligns with your audience, target markets, label claims, shade strategy, and budget—then gets proven by testing and preserved by packaging.

Ready to co-create a retail-ready custom sunscreen? Contact Zerun Cosmetic，Request free consultation, filter recommendations, and pilot samples.