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Private label hair dye: how can brands design an effective grey-coverage & fashion-color hero product?

A successful hair dye delivers predictable shade, even coverage and shine while respecting the hair fibre and scalp, with shade names and usage that consumers can understand and repeat.

Many launches fail because shades pull too dark or too warm, grey coverage is inconsistent, hair feels rough after coloring, or allergy and sensitivity issues are not handled transparently. Confusing shade charts and poor kit design also stop hair dyes from becoming repeat-purchase hero products.

GMP/ISO • EU/US compliant docs • Samples in 3–7 days • MOQ from 1,000 pcs

What are the key specifications of this custom hair dye?

You need to define shade families, grey-coverage targets, oxidation system, “free-from” policy, kit components and channels before we start development.

Spec / Parameter Card

FieldOptions / Recommendations
Colour SystemOxidative permanent dye • demi-permanent • tone-on-tone • semi-permanent direct dye
Shade DirectionNatural browns • cool ash • warm gold/copper • reds • blacks • blonding / high-lift • fashion vivid shades
Grey Coverage Strategy100% grey coverage • blended “soft grey” effect • root-touch-up focus
Target UsersMass DIY • salon-inspired home colour • men’s grey blending • root touch-up • vivid/fantasy colour fans
Developer SystemSeparate developer (6–30 vol where allowed) • pre-loaded bottle systems • sachet kits
“Free-From” ChoicesAmmonia vs ammonia-free (MEA) • PPD-free/PTD-based • resorcinol-reduced • silicone-free conditioner options
Conditioning & CareOils, butters, cationic conditioners, bond-supportive and anti-breakage complexes, anti-brass toners
Claim Focus“Up to 100% grey coverage” • “Long-lasting colour & shine” • “Less damage feel” • “No harsh ammonia smell” (where applicable)
Patch-Test & WarningsClear allergy alert, patch-test guidance, timing and glove usage instructions
pH / ProcessingAlkaline colourant + acidic/neutral after-care; processing times mapped to developer level & claims
Stability & QCShade stability, viscosity, developer strength, tube/bottle compatibility, stain & drip tests
DocsCOA, SDS, micro & stability data; cosmetic safety file inputs and label text support for key markets
Sampling & Lead TimeLab shades from base palette quickly; full shade ranges and testing require staged timelines
Typical MOQ1,000–3,000 pcs/shade for validated systems; higher for new dye systems or high-complexity kits

Which customers and channels is this hair dye for?

Hair dye lines can target everything from first-time DIY grey coverage to bold fashion colour lovers, men’s quick grey blending and salon-inspired “home glossing” concepts across retail and e-commerce.

Different hair and grey levels need different colour systems—high-coverage creams for stubborn greys, gentler tone-on-tone for shine and semi-permanent for fashion shades. This tab shows how we tune system, alkalinity and care so each SKU feels purposeful instead of one harsh formula for all.

First Greys / Soft Blending

  • System: Demi-permanent or gentle permanent.
  • Core stack: Lower developer strength, softer alkalizer, high conditioning.
  • Notes: “Blends first greys” rather than strong line of demarcation.
  • Micro-CTA: Create a Soft Grey-Blending Colour Line

Stubborn Grey Coverage (60–100% Grey)

  • System: Permanent cream colour.
  • Core stack: Optimised oxidative dyes, robust developer, strong conditioning base.
  • Notes: Classic naturals and cool browns with clear “up to 100% grey coverage” framing.
  • Micro-CTA: Design a High-Coverage Grey Line

Blonding & Lightening

  • System: High-lift permanent or bleach + toner kit (where regulations allow).
  • Core stack: Lightening agents, anti-brass tone, bond-supportive ingredients.
  • Notes: Requires careful positioning, shade charts and clear processing guidance.
  • Micro-CTA: Build a Safer At-Home Blonding System

Fashion Reds, Coppers & Vivids

  • System: Oxidative reds or semi-permanent direct dyes.
  • Core stack: Intense dye load, anti-fade and shine agents.
  • Notes: Expect more frequent refresh; good for younger, expressive audiences.
  • Micro-CTA: Launch a Fashion-Colour Capsule Collection

Men’s Grey Blending & Root Solutions

  • System: Fast-developing creams, gels or gradual systems.
  • Core stack: Quick application, subtle shade steps, minimal odour.
  • Notes: Focus on “natural-looking, not shoe-polish” and easy root touch-ups.
  • Micro-CTA: Create Men’s Grey-Blending & Root Kits

Hair colour habits change with age—from experimental teens to 40+ users needing predictable grey coverage. We vary system, processing time, odour profile and after-care so each segment gets credible results that suit their time and comfort level.

Teens & 20s – Experiment & Self-Expression

  • Texture/System: Semi-permanent gels or creams; bold, conditioning.
  • Core stack: Direct dyes, low-commitment, strong shine.
  • Notes: Focus on fun shades, less damage, social-media-friendly visuals.

Late 20s–30s – First Greys & Colour Play

  • Texture/System: Demi-permanent and soft permanent.
  • Core stack: Shine-boosting, gentle coverage, fashion browns & reds.
  • Notes: Balances professional image with self-expression & care.

30s–40s – Regular Grey Coverage & Care

  • Texture/System: Permanent cream colour kits.
  • Core stack: High coverage, anti-brass control, bond-supportive care.
  • Notes: Routine-friendly timing and clear shade numbers are critical.

40s–50s – Stubborn Greys, Scalp Comfort

  • Texture/System: Better coverage creams with more conditioning.
  • Core stack: Fibre-care lipids, soothing agents, odour-control.
  • Notes: Comfort, scalp-awareness and predictable results drive loyalty.

60s+ – Gentle Colour & Low Maintenance

  • Texture/System: Mild permanent or demi, grey-blending tones.
  • Core stack: Conditioning-first, soft tonal shifts, low fragrance.
  • Notes: Easy application, simple instructions and root-focused solutions.

What can top-selling hair dyes teach your formula design?

Top hair dye brands show that clear shade systems, believable grey coverage claims, odour management and strong after-care are just as important as the colour formula itself.

Brand / ProductCore Actives / System (typical)Format / TextureStrengthsGaps / Considerations
L’Oréal Paris Excellence CrèmeOxidative dyes, ammonia, developer cream, ceramides & conditioning complexCream colour + developer + post-colour careStrong “triple care” and up to 100% grey-coverage narrative; reliable mass-market benchmark.Classic ammonia smell; may not fit “ammonia-free” or “clean” concepts.
Garnier Nutrisse Nourishing Color CremeOxidative dyes, oil-enriched colour cream, developer, avocado/olive oilsCream colour kit“Nourishing” positioning with fruit oils; good for dry-hair stories.Shade naming and tone control must be carefully localised if using as model.
Revlon ColorSilk Beautiful ColorAmmonia-free oxidative dyes, developer, silk proteins / keratin complexLiquid/cream colour with developerAffordable, ammonia-free positioning with full grey coverage; strong value reference.May be perceived as more basic vs premium or “clean” players.
Clairol Nice’n Easy Permanent Hair ColorOxidative dyes, conditioners, colour blend technologyCream colour kitLong-running home-colour classic; natural-looking tones and grey coverage.Traditional fragrance and packaging style may feel dated to younger audiences.
Schwarzkopf Keratin ColorOxidative dyes, keratin-based care complex, pre-colour treatmentRich cream kit“Less breakage” and keratin story; pre-treatment for more even results.More complex instructions; not ideal for very first-time colourers.
Just For Men Original Formula / Control GXOxidative dyes, surfactants, conditionersMen’s targeted creams / gradual shampoosClear men’s grey-coverage and blending positioning; quick, simple usage.Allergy awareness and patch-test communication must be strong; male-focussed only.
Madison Reed Radiant Hair Color KitAmmonia-free, often PPD-free, conditioning base, oilsCream kit with salon-inspired brandingPremium, “free-from” and subscription-friendly positioning; strong example of modern DTC hair colour.Higher price; complex ingredient story that must be supported with regulatory work.

Custom Funtion Formula for your brand? You can review hair function formulation pages: 

 Custom Hair Dyeing Formulations, Custom Hair Color Protection Formulations, Custom Hair Protection Formulations

 

Hair Dyes Finish Products you may want to reference:

hair dye
hair color
organic hair dye
hair dye for brunettes
ammonia free hair dye
permanent hair dye
semi permanent hair dye
vegan hair dye

Make A Sample First?

If you have your own formula, packaging idea, logo artwork, or even just a concept, please share the details of your project requirements, including preferred product type, ingredients, scent, and customization needs. We’re excited to help you bring your personal care product ideas to life through our sample development process.

How should you design the formula and active stack for hair dye?

Start with the right colour system and alkalinity, then build in fibre-care and anti-brass elements so colour results feel predictable while hair still feels soft and manageable after rinsing.

Colour system & shade map design

  • System choice: Permanent oxidative colour for strong grey coverage and long wear. Demi-permanent for shine, tone and first greys. Semi-permanent direct dyes for vivid shades and low commitment.
  • Shade architecture: Core naturals (1–8/9 level) for grey coverage. Cool and warm tonal families (ash, beige, gold, copper, red, mahogany). Fashion shad es and limited editions layered on top of core map.

Dye precursors, alkalizers & developers

  • Oxidative dye system: Use of well-known intermediates and couplers within regulatory limits. Options for PPD-free/PTD-based systems where brands request this.
  • Alkalizer strategy: Classic ammonia systems for high lift and coverage. Ammonia-free/low-odour systems (e.g. MEA-based) with careful performance testing.
  • Developer: Cream developers for better feel and precision. Strength levels aligned with claims (e.g. standard vs high-lift shades).

Fibre-care, shine & anti-brass

  • Conditioning & protection: Cationic conditioners, fatty alcohols, oils and butters in the colour base. Optional bond-supportive technologies to help reduce breakage feel.
  • Anti-brass & tone control: Blue/violet direct dyes in blonding and brown ranges. Dedicated toning masks or conditioners for post-colour care.
  • After-care system: Enclosed conditioner/mask designed to complement the dye pH and claims. Option to build matching shampoo, mask and leave-in for your line.

Sensitivity, allergy awareness & compliance

  • Allergy & patch-test: Clear Allergy Alert Test wording and on-pack warnings. Support for country-specific language (EU/UK, GCC, etc.).
  • Regulatory: Dye, peroxide and alkalizer choices checked against target market regulations. INCI names, usage instructions and leaflet text prepared for compliance.
  • User handling: Gloves, instructions and timing tables designed for non-professional users.

Active / ComponentKey FeaturesSuitable Uses / Hair TypesRecommended CombinationsSuggested Packaging
Oxidative Dye Precursors & CouplersPermanent colour and grey coverageCore natural and fashion shadesPaired with appropriate alkalizer & developer, plus conditionersTubes or bottles with developer kit
Alkalizers (Ammonia / MEA etc.)pH lift to open cuticle & enable colourPermanent and high-lift shadesConditioning base + bond-support activesSealed tubes; strong odour control
Developer (Cream Peroxide)Oxidises dye and lightens natural pigmentGreys, blonding, fashion shadesMatched % to system + anti-brass tonersBottles or sachets in kits
Cationic Conditioners & LipidsSoftness, combability, surface careAll hair types, especially dry/damagedOils, butters, bond supportive ingredientsColourant cream, post-treatment
Bond-Support & Anti-Breakage ActivesHelps reduce breakage feel & damage appearanceBleached, lightened, frequently coloured hairBlonding + highlighting + toning systemsPremium lines; tubes & sachets
Anti-Brass Pigments (Blue/Violet)Neutralises yellow/orange tonesBlondes, highlighted and light brown shadesBlonding kits + toning masksToner tubes, masks, purple conditioners
Oils & Butters (Argan, Avocado etc.)Shine, nourishment, smoother feelDry, coarse and grey hairCationic base + anti-fade polymersColour cream, conditioner, mask
Anti-Fade & Shine AgentsLonger-lasting colour and glossReds, fashion and dark shadesUV filters + conditioners + oilsAfter-care ranges, leave-ins

 

Which textures work best for hair dye?

The best hair dye textures are thick enough to control drips, spread evenly from roots to ends and mix well with developer, while rinsing out cleanly after processing.

Considerations by market and user

  • Climate: Hot / humid: non-drip cream and gel textures prevent mess. Cold / dry: richer, more caring bases for comfort and shine.
  • Hair type & usage: Thick or long hair: higher slip and richer creams help saturation. Short or men’s hair: gels and bottle-applied liquids are quick and practical. High-lift or bleaching kits: stabilised creams and powders with detailed directions.
  • Channel: Amazon / e-commerce: clear kit visuals, shade swatches and texture macros. Drugstore / mass retail: simple, intuitive textures and mixing steps. Salon-inspired / DTC: premium oil-cream or bond-support textures with strong storytelling.

Rich Cream Colourant

Classic, high-viscosity cream for reliable grey coverage and natural shades.

  • High-viscosity emulsion; easy to apply with brush or applicator bottle.
  • Ideal for grey coverage, natural tones and most DIY kits.
  • Typically packed in tubes paired with cream developer bottles.

Gel or gel-cream hair dye

Lighter, low-drip system that feels modern and easy for full-head or short-hair colouring.

  • Thicker than liquids but lighter than classic creams, with good spread.
  • Low drip for full-head applications and men’s short-hair colouring.
  • Often used in “no-mix” or pre-filled bottle systems for convenience.

Oil-cream / oil-based system

Oil-enriched cream that improves sensorial feel, shine and odour-masking.

  • Creamy texture with added oils or emollients for smoother after-feel.
  • Supports “no ammonia” or “oil-based” positioning where applicable.
  • Works well for drier, coarse or grey hair types that need extra care.

Which packaging options make sense for hair dye?

Choose packaging that makes mixing, application and timing intuitive, protects peroxides and dyes, and delivers everything the consumer expects in one reliable kit.

Factors to align with your brand

  • Application method:Tube colourant + bottle developer kits for classic home colour. Dual-chamber or pre-filled applicator bottles for convenience systems. Brush-and-bowl sets for more professional or DTC experiences.
  • Stability & protection:Aluminium or laminate tubes for colourant with strong barrier properties. Opaque HDPE or PET bottles for peroxide developers. Cartons engineered to hold leaflet, gloves, masks and accessories securely.
  • Sustainability direction:PCR cartons, bottles and caps where feasible. Reduced-plastic accessory choices, such as thinner gloves or reusable tools. Simplified material combinations for easier recycling.
  • Label and artwork space:Front-of-pack shade visuals, numbering, and “before/after” shade guides. Clear warnings, patch-test instructions and timing tables on carton and leaflet. Multi-language layouts for export.
  • Channel needs: E-commerce: robust shipping cartons and leak-tested components. Retail: strong shelf blocking with consistent shade navigation. Salon/DTC: more premium kits, refill options or multi-application packs.

Colour Cream Tube + Developer Bottle Kit

Classic format with separate cream tube, peroxide bottle, gloves, conditioner sachet and leaflet; ideal for mass and retail.

Pre-Filled Applicator Bottle System

Mix-in-bottle or ready-to-use systems with nozzle or comb applicators; good for men’s lines and quick root touch-up.

PCR Options

Post-consumer recycled cartons and bottles; optional PCR caps and accessories to support sustainability claims without changing basic user experience.

What do brands most often ask about this hair dye?

Brands usually ask how to balance coverage with hair condition, whether to go ammonia-free or PPD-free, how many shades they really need, and how to handle allergy warnings and regulations.

1. How many shades do we need to launch a credible hair dye line?
  • Very focused lines can start with 8–12 strategic shades.
  • Most mass lines eventually build to 18–30+ shades across key families.
  • We help map shades to your price point, shelf space and online filters.

  • Ammonia gives strong lift and coverage but has a distinct odour.
  • Ammonia-free systems are possible using alternative alkalizers but need more development and testing.
  • We match the system to your performance expectations, claims and target markets.

  • PPD-free options exist using other dye precursors (e.g. PTD-based), but shade palette and cost can change.
  • Allergy risk can’t be eliminated; clear patch-test and warning texts are still required.
  • We discuss trade-offs between palette breadth, cost and positioning.

  • Conditioning-rich bases, bond-supportive technologies and targeted after-care help reduce damage perception.
  • We can build integrated routines: colour + mask + leave-in for ongoing care.
  • Instrumental or panel tests are possible to support “less breakage feel” claims.

  • Allergy warnings and patch-test instructions are key legal and ethical elements.
  • We provide base texts and support you in aligning with local regulations.
  • Final responsibility sits with the brand owner; we help you understand the framework.

  • MOQs usually start around 1,000–3,000 kits per shade, higher for complex packaging.
  • Lead times depend on dye system selection, stability work, packaging sourcing and print items.
  • Main cost drivers: dye system complexity, “free-from” requirements, bond-care technologies, number of accessories and type of packaging.

How will Zerun Cosmetic support private label hair dye projects?

  • Our team will answer your inquiries within 12 hours.
  • Your information will be kept strictly confidential.

Zerun supports hair-colour brands with robust shade maps, fibre-care-focused colour chemistry, kit design and compliance-aware communication, helping you build a hair dye line that wins both first-time buyers and loyal repeat users.

We start from your reality:

  • Your target users (first greys, stubborn grey coverage, fashion colour, men’s grey blending, blonding).
  • Your preferred positioning (mass, salon-inspired, DTC “clean”, men’s, vivid colour).
  • Your key markets, “free-from” rules, regulatory needs and budget for testing and accessories.

We co-develop formulas, formats and routines:

  • Hair dye systems across permanent, demi and semi-permanent formats.
  • Shade architectures that balance natural coverage shades, cool tones and fashion accents.
  • Matching after-care lines—shampoo, mask, leave-in, anti-brass toners—for full hair-colour routines.

We help plan claims, tests and documentation:

  • Coverage, longevity, shine, odour, anti-brass and care claims aligned with your risk appetite.
  • Stability, micro and, where needed, instrumental breakage or fade testing options.
  • Support with shade-naming logic, INCI layout, warnings and technical documentation for EU/UK, US, GCC and more.

We think in routines, not single SKUs:

  • Hair dye concepts that anchor “colour day” rituals with pre- and post-care.
  • Tiered offerings (core grey range, fashion capsules, men’s line, root touch-up) for different users and price levels.
  • Portfolio architecture optimised for SEO, AI recommendations, cross-sell bundles and in-store navigation.

If you already have reference products or ideas, share:

  • Links or photos of hair colour kits you like (shade map, packaging, claim style).
  • Your target consumers, hero benefits and destination markets.
  • Your initial volume expectations and desired launch timing.

Based on this, we can propose a clear hair dye development roadmap, shade rollout plan and sampling schedule. Use the contact form, email or WhatsApp on this site to start your private label hair dye project with Zerun.

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